The Journey of Enjoying Good Hot Springs Near Kanto Area

Hot springs abound in Japan and this week we go in search of hidden spas. Located in unusual spots, these exquisite hot springs will rejuvenate you. Along the way, we will also indulge in seasonal local culinary delicacies.

Our first hidden hot spring is located in Gunma, which is known for its hot springs. From Tokyo, travel by Joetsu Shinkansen to Takasaki Station, Gunma. Then, hop on board a Galaxy Express 999 train from Takasaki and head to Shimonita. The Joshin Dentetsu train is decorated with the illustrations of author Matsumoto Leiji. Four trains ply daily from Takasaki to Shimonita, which once prospered as an agricultural town. The local specialities of Shimonita are green onions and konjac. Konjac is cultivated almost exclusively in Gunma Prefecture. So you may first wish to visit the konjac fields to see how konjac is harvested. You will notice that machines are used for digging the konjac out of the earth, but their buds and sprouts are removed by hand. As for Shimonita green onions, they are characterised by their shortness and thickness. To try these local delicacies, go to the Nabeya restaurant, located near the train station. It was established in 1928. The Sukiyaki set meal features Shimonita green onion, Shimonita konjac and Shimonita mushrooms. At a price of 1,000 yen (S$16), the set comes with rice, miso soup, tender local beef and other side dishes.

The hot spring resort – Shimonita Hot Spring, Seiryuusou – will arrange for a driver to pick you up from the train station. However, the resort is just five minutes away, so you could even walk there if you wish. The secluded resort is actually a private estate situated deep in the mountains. The resort spans across 5.7 acres of land and features six traditional Japanese-style guest rooms in the main building, and six detached cottages. A night’s stay in a Japanese-style guest room starts at 12,600 yen (S$199), and includes two meals. If you stay in a cottage, accommodation plus two meals cost at least 17,850 yen (S$282). The detached cottages have separated living room and tatami areas. The resort has its own ranch and private fields. Organic vegetables are planted in the fields, which span 2 acres. Freshly picked seasonal vegetables are served to the hotel guests. Plus, various types of mushrooms such as shitake and nameko are cultivated in the mountains. As for the ranch, it was built 40 years ago to raise pure breed wild boars. Other livestock such as silkie hens are also part of the ranch. Thus, 90% of the resort’s food supply comes from the huge farm.

The hotel’s hot spring features carbonated spring water, which is rather uncommon in this area. Furthermore, unlike the many hot springs in Gunma which have coloured water, the water here is transparent. With a delightful ambience and beautiful surroundings, this splendid hot spring with great therapeutic effects is the perfect treat. Dinner is prepared by the proprietress and can be enjoyed in the comfort of your room. The menu includes freshly picked mushrooms; charcoal-grilled landlocked salmon from the resort’s fish pond; deep fried Shimonita green onion; and wild boar slices in homemade miso soup. The next day, after a refreshing morning bath, enjoy a delicious breakfast which includes silkie hen eggs.

After checking out, go to a famous tourist hot spot, Mount Myogi. It has several routes for hiking, one of which is the beginner’s course towards Fourth Doorway of Rocks. It takes about 30 minutes to reach the Fourth Doorway of Rocks. Enjoy the magnificent view of stacked up rocks and overlapping mountains from here.

Our next fabulous hidden hot spring is located in Saitama’s Chichibu. A train ride from Tokyo connecting onto Chichibu Railway takes two hours. There are several famous historical hot springs in Chichibu which are known as Chichibu Seven Baths. These have been around since the Edo period and currently, only four of the baths exist. So, stroll around the town while looking for these hidden hot springs. The first destination is Shibahara Hot Spring. Along the way, look out for interesting sights such as Gassho-style houses at Shirakawa-go. The 130-year-old Shibahara Hot Spring resort features a nostalgic atmosphere which takes you back to the early Showa era. Shibahara Mineral Spring, Yanagiya, is one of the Chichibu Seven Baths. Many people visit this bath to rejuvenate their bodies. Nestled among the mountains and surrounded by the serenity of nature, this hidden resort attracts many long-stay guests. The proprietor will take you to the historical source of the mineral spring water bath. It is a five-minute walk through the woods and later you can indulge in the water, while enjoying the tranquil atmosphere of the natural surroundings.

The next stop is Shika Hot Spring. Visit the Secret Hot Spring of Masakado. Legend has it that a long time ago, Samurai Masakado used to go the hot spring resort here as a retreat. The Shiraku Mineral Spring Miyako Ryokan has an old Japanese-style decor and serves day spa customers as well. Its popular outdoor bath has a magnificent view, accompanied by the cool breeze from the steep valleys. After your bath, head to Ogano in West Chichibu. The town has a retro atmosphere which is captivating. Drop by a 200-year-old Yofukan (Japanese pastry) shop and try some delicious Yokan desserts. The shop still makes the desserts the traditional way and you will love their authentic flavour. After exploring the town, you may wish to have lunch at a restaurant in a wooden standalone building. The menu only has one item – pork cutlet rice bowl. The savoury-sweet pork cutlets go very well with white rice. After lunch, make your way to a 200-year-old hot spring at a farmhouse. Miyamotoke used to be a lodge for pilgrims visiting various temples. It is spacious enough to accommodate 50 guests, but it now only hosts one guest group everyday. The farmhouse still displays many tools used by farmers in the past.

Guests of Miyamotoke can use the private baths at its sister premise. The highly recommended choice is the outdoor giant cypress wood tub. After this satisfying bath, feast on a dinner comprising 20 different regional dishes. Items include fresh produce from the farm, Japanese freshwater crabs, grilled freshwater trout, stewed udon, and even escargots - a local delicacy. After dipping them in a savoury-sweet sauce, the escargots are grilled on skewers. The next day, visit a beautiful waterfall in the woods. Take a 40-minute bus ride to the Marugami Waterfall Entrance. If you wish, you can engage the services of a local mountain guide, who will meet you at the bus stop. You will have to hike for about 25 minutes through the woods to reach the lookout point of the scenic waterfall.

Next up is a hidden hot spring in the seaside town of Yokosuka, which is also famous for its hot springs. From Yokosuka Station, hop on a bus bound for Kinugasa Station. Alight at Sano Yon-Chome, which is about 20 minutes away from Yokosuka Station. Ask a local resident for directions to Sano Natural Hot Spring, Noborikumo. It is a hot spring day spa which dates back to the Edo period. The spa facility used to be the home of the Nagashima family. Six years ago, Mr Nagashima was hoping to start his own business. He heard about new hot springs being discovered in Yokosuka and decided to dig his backyard and found water. So he opened this hot spring facility four years ago. Natural carbonated spring water gushes out from 800 metres below. The bubbles help to strip away the dead skin on your body, leaving your skin silky smooth. It also has healing properties.

Another interesting hot spring nearby is actually located at the basement of a Japanese restaurant. Take a bus to Una-Hagi, a famous restaurant which specialises in freshwater eel dishes. Along the way, drop by a petrol stand with its very own hot spring source! The boss of the petrol stand happened to find the hot spring while repairing what he thought was a leak. The highly concentrated spring water here is said to have therapeutic benefits. This unique hot spring is very popular among the local residents, and sometimes attracts up to 50 customers a day. Customers purchase 1 litre of the spring water for 600 yen (S$9) and bathe with it at home. In fact, there are more customers buying water than petrol! From the petrol stand, walk for 20 minutes along the highway to the Una-Hagi restaurant. The natural hot spring water here is cold, with a temperature of 16 degrees. The water is free for everybody to take home.